Arctic norway: the land of the midnight sun | thearticle

As I write, I’m in the Norwegian far north on the Finnish/Russian border, at the tail end of an incredible journey on the Hurtigruten route from Bergen to the village of Kirkenes. This

Arctic region is often known as the Land of the Midnight Sun.  It’s been a lifelong dream for me to go to the Arctic Circle in high summer, where between midnight and 2.00 am it’s been an

amalgam of sunset and sunrise, travelling around the horizon before the sun pops up again. I have always considered myself to be a non-believer, but this trip has been truly akin to a

religious experience. I’m certainly not so sure of myself now. For years, friends have told me of their experiences of the Norwegian Coastal boat which travels from Bergen right the way up

to the north of the country, a trip which takes around seven days to complete. Locals and backpackers use the boat to get from one place to the next, dozing on the deck as the boat pauses

along the way to load and unload mail and cargo. There are also cabins for those, like me, who want to take a longer trip. The MS Nordkapp is one of the smallest of the Hurtigruten fleet,

but I was still nervous about a boat that can sleep over 400 passengers. Was this going to be just a naff cruise? It’s been anything but. For a start, there is no entertainment on board and,

thank goodness, no piped music. People keep voices to a minimum, as though dumbstruck by the mostly uninhabited scenery. Even the young backpackers remain quiet. There is a dreamlike feel

to it all.    And the food. Oh, the food. Three meals a day of incredible quality and variety. I can’t stop eating. I must have put on pounds — but I don’t care.   And I’m not sure where all

those passengers are – it’s a bit of a mystery. Most of them seem to be hiding.    I’ve got into the habit of dozing for part of the day, so that I can experience the magical nights

watching the horizon and the wild landscape. At 1.30 am I’m the only person on deck. There is a small outdoor spa pool from where I can choose to watch those eerie cliffs pass by. The

temperature is in the early twenties all night due to the effects of the Gulf Stream. I was warned over and over by friends about the horrendous midges in the summer in northern Scandinavia,

but I’ve not seen or felt a single one. The Hurtigruten trip is not cheap, but I can see why. A bottle of house wine, for a start, is £46.00. But then the prices in Norway are quite mad.

They make London seem cheap.  A basic sandwich in Bergen was £15.00, as was a glass of wine.  And the prices of the few excursions I took while the ship was unloading have also been pretty

steep. But a walk around the coastline, a 20 km electric bike ride round Tromsø and a bird-watching boat trip off the far north town of Honningsvag , the northernmost point in mainland

Europe, were worth the price. I spotted golden eagles on the rocks, alongside puffins and seals. The whole trip has cost around £3,500 including flights and an overnight hotel in Bergen. It

has to be the most expensive week’s holiday I’ve ever taken — but also the most unforgettable. I’m already planning a short trip next January, starting in Tromsø, in the hope of seeing the

Aurora Borealis. With direct flights from London, it’s not hard to make it to somewhere truly remote and stunningly beautiful. Northern Norway in the depths of winter promises to be a

totally different and equally magical experience.    A MESSAGE FROM THEARTICLE _We are the only publication that’s committed to covering every angle. We have an important contribution to

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