Locally, a small but varied selection of picpouls

For all the variety of Picpouls de Pinet in Languedoc- Roussillon, the same names pop up over and over on restaurant wine lists and in stores, and the same is even truer in the United

States. They’re not easy to find in the United States: No more than half a dozen are readily available, even online. But as a shop owner in Montpellier responded when we asked whether he had

more labels in stock than those we saw on the shelf: “_Un_. _Deux_. _Trois_. _Quatre_. How many do you need?” The following give a good sense of how wines vary. _2005 Château Saint Martin

de La Garrigue Picpoul de Pinet__._ Minerally, citrusy but very full and rounded, with a hint of kiwi in the mouth. Available online at wineaccess.com, $13 plus shipping. _2006 Cave Les

Vignobles Montagnac Picpoul de Pinet__._ A whiff of raspberry in the aroma and decided tartness on the palate, with a full-bodied flavor and almost walnutty finish. Available online at

unionsquarewines.com, $11 plus shipping. _2006 Domaine Gaujal de Saint Bon Picpoul de Pinet __(also sold as Château de Pinet). _Bone dry, with an almost oceanic aroma and a very fruity but

tart flavor, like a lemon Lifesaver, and a faintly lemon-butter finish. Available at the Cheese Store of Silver Lake, (323) 644-7511, cheesestoresl.com and Wine House in West L.A., (310)

479-3731, winehouse.com; about $10. _2006 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet. _Bright and attractive, with lemon scents and a pleasant bitter almond finish. Available at Wine Exchange in

Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639, winex.com and Beverage Warehouse in Los Angeles, (310) 306-2822, beveragewarehouse.com; about $8. -- Regina Schrambling MORE TO READ