Costume, music, floats: where to see france’s vibrant carnival parades

Like so many other cultural traditions, the roots of carnival in France come from the pre-Christian celebration of the end of winter. The word itself comes from the Italian _carnevalo _–

_carne_ (meat) and _levare_ (remove), describing Mardi Gras or Shrove Tuesday, the last day before Christians adopted a strict diet during the 40 days of Lent. This period reflects the 40

days Jesus is said to have spent in the desert being tempted by the devil. Before Christianity, however, it is a commonly held belief that people celebrated the end of winter with a big

feast before starting on an annual lean period. During February and March, people would have to eke out food supplies until the first early crops could be harvested. Then hens would begin to

lay again, the first lambs would be born, some sprigs of mint would push through the cold earth and perhaps there would be a handful of early green peas. In ancient Rome, the new year began

in March. Today in France there are spectacular carnival parades all over the country. In some larger cities the celebrations continue for weeks on end, and as well as parades there are

masked balls, concerts, dancing, fancy dress and music in the streets. There is also a joyous tradition of clowning and imitation, in which the roles of bosses and workers are reversed. READ

MORE: KEY CULTURAL AND SPORTING EVENTS IN FRANCE IN 2024 NICE CARNIVAL THEME IS THE KING OF POP CULTURE One of the largest and most famous is held in Nice. This year the dates are February

17 to March 3 and as always, most of the action is centred around the Place Masséna and the Promenade des Anglais. Last year the 150th anniversary of the Nice carnival attracted around

200,000 spectators who came to admire the two hour-long parades and the bataille de fleurs, in which flowers are thrown into people's faces. This year the theme is ‘The King of Pop

Culture’. Seated tickets are around €14-28, but entrance to pedestrian areas is free for people in fancy dress. The second Friday is devoted to Lou Queernaval, France’s first LGBT carnival.

It is free. Events kick off at 20:30 on the main stage with an opening cabaret show followed by a parade featuring, amongst other delights, drag queens in elaborate costumes. Afterwards, the

action shifts to the countless parties that take place in the bars along Rue Bonaparte. READ MORE: LGBT PEOPLE IN RURAL FRANCE CAN ‘FEEL ALONE’ SAYS PRIDE ORGANISER PARIS PARADE DATES BACK

TO MIDDLE AGES Another huge carnival parade will be held in Paris on February 11. The Promenade du Boeuf Gras has been a tradition in the capital since the Middle Ages, and attracts 50,000

spectators who revel in the spectacular entertainment emanating from floats, jugglers, acrobats, dancers, and musicians. It kicks off at 13:00 in Place Gambetta (20th arrondissement) and

ends in the Place de la République. The theme this year is Hommage à Basile Pachkoff: la poésie, la philosophie, la peinture. (Basile Pachkoff was a keen carnival-goer and historian of

carnivals credited for having resurrected the Paris carnival in 1993). Bordeaux, Nantes, Toulouse and Lyon also organise large carnival events. READ MORE: MARDI GRAS: 12 TRADITIONAL CARNIVAL

SWEET TREATS TO TRY IN FRANCE VENICE CARNIVAL COMES TO ANNECY For something altogether more poetic and romantic, the Venetian carnival in Annecy is worth visiting. It takes place over a

single weekend (February 23-25) and makes the most of Annecy’s nickname, ‘the Venice of the Alps’. The narrow, cobbled lanes beside the canals are filled with around 500 mysterious creatures

in white masks wearing sumptuous costumes often richly embroidered and decorated with pearls. _Image: None of the costumes are supposed to leave any skin visible; Credit: Didier Baillet_

The event dates back to 1995, when Annecy was twinned with Vicenza, a town in Italy around 100km from Venice, and the Association Aria 74 (Association Rencontres Italie Annecy) was founded.

COSTUMES ARE STRANGE AN BEAUTIFUL This association runs the carnival and helps around 500 participants make their masks and costumes. Some of them belong to the association, and others come

from Remiremont (Vosges), which was the first town in France to hold a Venetian carnival. Amongst them you can spot men wearing a traditional _bauta_ – a black tricorne and cloak with an

extremely pointed white mask which dates back to at least the 18th century. You can also see women wearing a_ loup_, a half-mask in velvet or satin, dating back to the same period, and the

_gnaga_, a feminine costume with a cat’s mask. None of the costumes are supposed to leave any skin visible. Set against the magnificent medieval backdrop of the lakeside city, the effect is

strange and beautiful. Instead of formal parades, the participants wander the town, strolling in the Jardins de l'Europe, le Pâquier and the Vieille Ville. EVERYONE DRESSES OUTRAGEOUSLY

FOR DUNKERQUE’S CARNIVAL The atmosphere at Dunkerque’s carnival is altogether more boisterous and colourful. This year it starts on January 3 and continues for nearly three months. It is

said to have originated in the 17th century, when ship owners gave a feast for the crews before they left to fish off the coast of Iceland for six perilous months. The highlight of the party

is the Trois Joyeuses, the three days before Ash Wednesday. In 2024 this coincides with Valentine’s Day, and the party extends from the weekend of February 10-11 right through to the

following weekend, with balls, bands and street parades. Everywhere you look, merrymakers will be sporting fuchsia and lemon yellow. Everyone dresses up outrageously and even people not in

full fancy dress wear dazzlingly colourful accessories and face paint. _Photo: Dunkerque’s carnival is boisterous and colourful; Credit: Ville de Dunkerque_ The Bal des Gigolos et Gigolettes

on February 17 gives a flavour of the glorious mayhem. Ball tickets have to be bought in advance, but the street parties are open to all. The local name for a carnival outfit is a clet’che

and lots of residents keep their costume from one year to the next. Some are very well-known – the Pizza, the Green Giant, Big Ears, and La Majorette make an appearance every year. Other

popular elements include extravagant hats, masks, face paint, fur coats, kilts, walking boots, and brightly coloured umbrellas on tall sticks. The complete programme is available ONLINE or

from the tourist office. CHOLET IN MARNE-ET-LOIRE BURN THE KING OF THE CARNIVAL FLOAT There are also some spectacular carnivals in lesser-known destinations. Cholet in Marne-et-Loire is

holding its 105th carnival on Sunday, April 14 this year, and the evening parade is on Saturday, April 20. Between the two dates, there is a full programme of concerts, dances and other

events. One of the only carnivals to hold an evening parade, the entire town will be dazzling with its spectacular lights. The King of the Carnival ceremonially burns a specially constructed

float at the end of the festivities. _Photo: Cholet has an evening parade; Credit: Serge Cousseau_ 150 YEARS OF GRANVILLE CARNIVAL IN NORMANDY This year Granville is holding its 150th

carnival from February 9 to 13, culminating in the judging and executing of the king on the Plat Gousset beach. A jubilant crowd have, in the past, also burned the king on the Cours

Jonville. This is not, however, an expression of Republican fervour. In the same way that ceremoniously handing the keys of the city to the elected Ladies of the Carnival signals the start

of the festivities, burning the king of the carnival (the master of ceremonies) signals an end to the licence and freedom of the weekend and a return to normal life. Revellers note with glee

that the programme has a footnote: Intrigues dans Toute La Ville. As well as the usual treats, the organisers are promising surprises to celebrate the carnival’s 150th birthday. _Photo:

Jubilant crowd at Granville carnival; Credit: OTGTM Cecile BALLON_ MUSIC, DANCING AND CONFETTI IN LIMOUX Another small town with a large carnival is Limoux, which celebrates every weekend

from January 7 to March 17, with bands, concerts and parades. Groups of costumed players make their appearance to live music on the Place de la République on Sundays at 11:00, 16:30 and

22:00. The tradition dates back to 1604, when local millers used to parade through the streets throwing sugared almonds and flour at the crowds to mark the day they paid their taxes at the

monastery on Shrove Tuesday. Today, groups of people in fancy dress roam from bar to bar playing music, dancing and throwing confetti. _Photo: Limoux is a small town with a large carnival;

Credit: Anthony Molina_ WITCHES, DEMONS AND WEIRD ANIMALS IN MULHOUSE In Mulhouse, the carnival takes place from February 14 to 19, but the run-up to it started back in November 2023, when

they elected the Prince of the Carnival, as well as the Queen and her ladies. The theme this year is Les Jeux Olympiques dans le Carnival Rhénan and crowds are expected from Germany and

Switzerland as well as across France. Local associations and groups make stands, and there are marching bands, spectacular parades, music and dancing. This is a Fastnacht carnival (from the

German words _fast _meaning to fast and _nacht _meaning night), with grotesque characters like witches, demons, and weird animals. The keys to the city are ceremonially handed over on Friday

evening and the children’s carnival takes place on Saturday afternoon, followed on Sunday by the International Parade. Throughout the weekend there are workshops for making masks, baking

pastries, face-painting and more. _Photo: Grotesque characters like witches, demons, and weird animals in Mulhouse; Credit: Ville Mulhouse_ CHILDREN’S CARNIVAL IN ALBI NEAR TOULOUSE The

organisers of the CARNIVAL IN ALBI are putting on a good show from February 10 to 25. The funfair opens on February 10, and the keys of the city are handed over to the Queen of the Carnival

on February 17. The first parade, including huge floats and troupes in sumptuous costumes, will take place on the 18th and there will also be a special carnival event for children on

Wednesday 21. The second parade will be on February 25 and the streets remain strewn with rainbow confetti throughout. Other events include a tea dance on February 22, a Soirée Bodéga on

February 24. CAEN HOSTS LARGEST STUDENT CARNIVAL IN EUROPE The Carnaval Etudiant in Caen (Normandy) was founded in 1894, lapsed in 1969, and was resurrected in 1996 by a group of students.

It is the largest student carnival in Europe. It will be on March 28 this year. In the afternoon a parade will wind its way through the ancient streets of the old town to the Parc des

expositions for a DJ party which will continue into the small hours. Around 35,000 people are expected to attend and as the name suggests, it will be a predominantly young crowd, and as the

date suggests, the celebrations will have only the slightest relationship to any kind of religious observance! Next year, the carnival is expected to be even bigger as Caen celebrates its

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