Can camembert be made in other places or only normandy?

A READER QUESTION, ANSWERED IN THE CONNEXION SEPTEMBER PRINT EDITION. CAN CAMEMBERT BE MADE IN OTHER PLACES IN FRANCE, OR ONLY NORMANDY? QUESTION Can camembert cheese only be made in

Normandy? B.W. ANSWER No… it can be made anywhere since production of camembert-style cheeses was widespread long before France created its _appellation d’origine contrôlée_ (AOC) protection

label, or the EU its equivalent _appellation d’origine protégée_. As long ago as 1909, a syndicate of Norman cheesemakers complained about “those who dare to sell under the name of

“camembert” pale imitations made outside Normandy”, especially in the centre and east of France. Today there is, for example, Tunworth camembert made in Hertfordshire, England, or Italian

buffalo milk camembert. However, there has been an AOC label since 1982 for camembert de Normandie, and an AOP since 1996, specifically protecting this name. Like other existing EU

food-quality and origin labels, this will continue to be respected in the UK after Brexit, meaning a British maker cannot produce “Normandy camembert”. Watch out, however: some cheese

described as_ fabriqué en Normandie_ (made in Normandy), is not _camembert de Normandie_. Camembert cheese originated in the village of Camembert (Orne), where it is said to have been

perfected in the 18th century by a farmer, Marie Harel, with help from a priest. It is still made there, including by the last maker of AOP _camembert fermier_ – made from the farm’s own

milk – Fromagerie Durand. _Camembert de Normandie_ must be made traditionally from _lait cru_ – unpasteurised milk, unlike most other camemberts. It must, of course, be made only in

Normandy, from Norman milk.