Virginia’s northern neck and eastern shore road trip


As evening approaches, board a 60-minute sunset cruise around Carters Creek, lined with stately homes, and into the Rappahannock to catch a colorful show as the sky glows pink. The Tides Inn

takes no more than six passengers (you needn't be a hotel guest) out on its Duffy boat, with comfortable seating and lots of shade. Adding to the sail's appeal, the captain shares

stories about the area's wildlife and history. For dinner, cross the Rappahannock to the Merroir Tasting Room in the tiny outpost of Topping to fill up on raw oysters, steamed clams

and tuna tacos. Savor it all in Merroir's outdoor picnic area overlooking the river. WHERE TO STAY: A former boarding school, the Hope and Glory Inn, in Irvington's

postcard-perfect downtown, oozes charm with just six guest rooms decorated in soothing pastel hues and six garden cottages as well as a saltwater pool. Across the river, Grey's Point

Camp caters to RVers and tent campers with riverfront sites. Cape Charles Beach Getty Images DAYS 4 AND 5: IRVINGTON TO ONANCOCK (148 MILES) Today your drive is a little over three hours,

but there are beautiful stops along the way. Head south along VA-3 and U.S. 17, leave the Northern Neck and Virginia mainland and take the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel to Virginia's

Eastern Shore, a 70-mile-long stretch of peninsula buffered by the Chesapeake and barrier islands lining the Atlantic Ocean. About 10 miles after exiting the tunnel, take advantage of the

free parking at Cape Charles Town Beach for a refreshing dip in the Chesapeake. Or for some good bird-watching, stroll the boardwalk through a peaceful pine forest for sweeping bay views at

the Cape Charles Natural Area Preserve. More than 240 bird species — including red-breasted mergansers and wood ducks — have been recorded here. If hunger strikes, follow the locals to

Shanty, a favorite Cape Charles restaurant, for she-crab soup and blackened shrimp burgers. Its outdoor patio with umbrella-shaded tables overlooks the harbor. From Cape Charles, drive less

than an hour north along U.S. 13 to Onancock on Onancock Creek (a branch off Chesapeake Bay). Spend time soaking up the town's charm — it has an attractive historic district — then go

kayaking with Burnham Guides. For two hours, you'll wend your way up several of the creek's sheltered tributaries as guides share insightful stories about the area's Native

American and shipping history. From Onancock, it's 182 miles north through Maryland to D.C., but what's the rush? Linger as long as you like to enjoy the slow pace and small-town

life of rural coastal Virginia. WHERE TO STAY (ONE OR TWO NIGHTS): Works by the artist-owner adorn the Charlotte, a boutique hotel in Onancock with five classically decorated rooms featuring

dark-wood furnishings and Oriental rugs.